Rabbits and small pets
Basic health care in rabbits
Rabbits are often described as
"small pets" - but remember veterinary care can still be
costly, so consider insurance when you get your pet.
Before heading to the surgery,
phone the vet first and, outside normal hours, have a pen ready as
you may be given another number to ring. Put your pet in a carry
basket or box - you may not be the only patient in the waiting
room.
Illnesses develop quickly with
rabbits, and they often do not look ill until they are really
unwell to avoid attracting attention from predators. If you think
that your pet is unwell, contact the vet immediately - tomorrow
might be too late.
How do you tell if your bunny
is not well?
If your rabbit is quieter than
normal, is sitting still and hunched up, does not want to move
about, or has not eaten for more than 12 hours, contact your vet
as soon as possible.
Teeth grinding, severe diarrhoea, difficulties in breathing,
straining to urinate, or signs of maggot attack, all need urgent
veterinary attention.
Fly kills rabbit!
Not a tabloid sensation - sadly,
this is often all too true. In the warmer months, all rabbits -
even indoor rabbits - are at risk from attack by maggots. These
eat into the flesh, causing severe damage and releasing toxins,
which may produce shock, severe illness and death. The condition
is called fly strike.
Maggots on your rabbit are an
emergency, so contact the vet immediately. Sadly, in severe cases,
euthanasia may be necessary. Intensive treatment is often needed
and it can take weeks for large areas of damaged skin to heal.
The risk is increased by
conditions causing dirty fur, which attracts flies. Rabbits that
cannot clean themselves properly because they are overweight,
arthritic, longhaired, have poor balance, are elderly, have a
large dewlap, or suffer dental disease are particularly at risk.
Open wounds and abscesses also
increase the risk so seek the advice of your vet.
But fly strike can happen to any
rabbit. You must check your rabbit at least twice daily underneath
and around the bottom for faecal soiling, sore places and matted
fur.
You can reduce the likelihood of
fly strike by using fly screens on hutches and runs.
Rearguard, a liquid treatment
which is applied to the rear half of the rabbit to prevent fly
eggs from hatching, is available from vets. It needs reapplication
every ten weeks, and you must still check your pet daily. Avoid
diarrhoea - make gradual changes to the diet over at least one
week, especially with spring/early summer grass and leafy greens.
Staying healthy
Vaccination
All rabbits need vaccinations
against myxomatosis and viral haemorrhagic disease.
Myxomatosis is a viral disease
that is often fatal, although milder forms sometimes occur.
It is spread by biting insects
such as fleas and mosquitoes, and by contact with an infected
rabbit. Vaccination, as with all vaccines, does not guarantee
total protection, although vaccinated rabbits are more likely to
survive the illness. In the UK it is currently recommended that
the vaccine should be repeated every six months in high-risk areas
(where there are lots of mosquitoes and/or wild rabbits, and flat
marshy areas) and annually elsewhere.
Annual vaccinations are best
given in spring, when biting insects start to become more common.
Ask your vet for a suitable product to treat your rabbits - and
cats and dogs - for fleas, and protect against mosquitoes. Avoid
having stagnant water in your garden and use mosquito-proof
screens on hutches.
Viral haemorrhagic disease is
also usually a killer disease. The virus survives well in the
environment and is easily spread between rabbits, by other animals
and wild birds, or by foods, such as hay or vegetables, which have
been contaminated by infected wild rabbits, or even by the wind.
All rabbits, even indoor ones, need annual vaccination, and you
need to reduce the chances of coming into contact with the virus.
Keep wild rabbits away with rabbit-proof fencing. Keep the areas
round the hutch clean to avoid attracting wild birds and rodents,
and prevent them from getting into hutches and runs. Do not pick
green foods from areas where there are wild rabbits.
Dietary matters
The digestive system of the
rabbit has more in common with a horse than with dogs or cats.
Rabbits need a high fibre diet, as without fibre their bowel
cannot function properly.
Good quality grass or grass hay
is the best source, but check that it is free from dust, mould,
and grass seeds which might get into the eye.
Feed plenty of fresh vegetables
and remember cereal-based diets (the muesli-type) are high in
sugar and low in minerals, and therefore should not be given.
Small quantities of high-fibre pellets are a better choice.
Introduce new foods gradually to prevent digestive upsets. A
peculiarity of rabbits is caecotrophy, which means they eat
special "faecal" pellets. These are paste like, covered
in jelly-like mucus, and similar to faeces (but softer and
bulkier). They are eaten daily when passed, often during grooming
at night, and contain essential nutrients.
If your rabbit stops eating or
passing faeces, see a vet as soon as possible.
Many problems, as well as
digestive upsets, will put your pet off food. Examples include
dental disease and stress.
Maintaining food intake is vital or further problems may follow.
Diarrhoea means a visit to the
vet, immediately if it is severe and the rabbit is unwell.
Mild diarrhoea often indicates
insufficient fibre in the diet, too many sugary treats or a change
in diet. Look around to see what your pet is eating. Infections do
occur in rabbits, especially when young, but they are relatively
uncommon. Pale-coloured, strong-smelling faeces caked at the back
end, along with the normal faeces in the run, may be uneaten
caecotrophs, and often indicate problems such as dental disease or
arthritis, reducing mobility. Again, see the vet, and guard
against fly strike.
Grooming
Wild rabbits groom each other -
it is a social activity. Pet bunnies with a short coat need
grooming weekly, or more often if they are longhaired. Longhairs
can be clipped instead - ask your vet to demonstrate how it is
done.
Rabbits moult twice a year in the
wild, but pet rabbits may moult more frequently.
The hair seems to come out in
handfuls and bald patches may develop. Moulting often starts on
the head and spreads down the back to the tummy, but does not
always follow a pattern.
There is sometimes a distinct
line between new and old fur. Groom frequently during moulting
because swallowing lots of fur can cause a blockage of the bowel.
Pluck loose fur with your fingers, or dampen your hands and
massage to remove the loose coat.
Check the quantity of faeces
daily and if it is reduced or dry, consult the vet. Make sure
plenty of hay is available.
Snuffles
Rabbits are prone to respiratory
diseases so good ventilation is essential.
Do not keep your pet in a damp
and dusty garden shed. Avoid dusty hay and strong smells - clean
out the hutch regularly. See the vet if your rabbit has a runny
nose, eyes or breathing difficulties. Dental problems can also
cause a runny nose or eyes
Exercise
Rabbits need daily exercise -
preferably outdoors - to keep their bones healthy. But protect
them from predators such as cats.
Avoid stress
Chronic stress can harm your
rabbit's health. Keep threatening predators away and watch for
bullying by other pets (including rabbits). Provide hiding places.
Weight watching
Does your pet have a podgy tummy
or a big dewlap? If so, he is probably overweight, and you need to
reduce his food - especially treats and pellets. If your pet is
losing weight (you may be able to feel an obvious backbone), see
the vet - it may indicate a problem such as dental disease. It is
a good idea to weigh your bunny monthly.
Check ups
Nails
If the nails are long and curving, you can trim them but avoid the
pink bit
(called the quick) in the middle. This hurts and will bleed if it
is cut. Ask the vet to show you how to do it. Make sure your
rabbit is getting enough exercise.
Coat and ears
Check the coat for scurf, dandruff, or itchy sores, and look in
the ears for crusty wax. Fleas are not a big problem, but rabbits
can get dog and cat fleas so get a suitable product from the vet
if you have other animals. They can also get ringworm, which is a
fungal infection, and infestations of microscopic creatures known
as mites. Some types of mite live in the ears, causing severe
irritation. In all cases, prompt veterinary treatment is needed.
Toilet troubles
Check your rabbit's faeces daily. If there are changes in colour,
consistency or amount, consult your vet. Rabbit urine varies in
colour, from pale yellow to red, depending on the diet, and it can
be cloudy. If it suddenly turns red, consult your vet who can test
whether blood is present. If your rabbit's fur is wet with urine,
your pet is straining as if constipated, or has lost normal toilet
training. See your vet - there may be problems.
Nursing a sick rabbit
Keep your pet in a warm but
well-ventilated area. Provide plenty of soft bedding and wipe away
discharges from the nose and eyes. Check the rear end for soiling
by faeces or urine and offer different types of soft food,
including fresh grass if possible, or try bits of apple or pear.
You can buy high fibre liquid
foods from the vet and feed them with a syringe, but be careful to
do so this slowly so you do not choke your pet. Ask the vet to
show you how. Alternatively, soften pellets in warm water and then
liquidise them. High sugar baby foods should be avoided. However,
if your pet will not take anything, inform the vet right away.
Neutering your rabbit
Male Rabbits
Male rabbits should be castrated from 6 months if you are not
intending to breed from him. It is really important that you keep
your male rabbits away from any female rabbits from the age of 6
months and for at least 6 weeks after the castration operation.
Female Rabbits
It is vitally important to neuter your female rabbit as they are
very prone to ovarian cancer and also to prevent pregnancy. We
advise neutering from 6 months but if you have a male rabbit in
the same pen, they should be separated from at least 3 months to
avoid any unwanted babies.
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